Diary of H J Clark's trip to USA and Canada
November 1888-January 1889 Diary of First Trip to U.S.A. and Canada by H.J. Clark (aged 19) Sailed from Larne in S.S. [Steam ship?] State of Nevada at 9 p.m. Saturday 17th November, 1888. Remained on deck till 11 p.m. and saw the lights of Rathlin Island, Ballycastle then got to bed but did not sleep much. Sunday 18th Rose at 8 a.m. and was awfully sick. Went on deck at 9 a.m. and was worse if possible. Ate no breakfast, lay down on my back & was much better. For dinner I had a little greasy soup & a chop. 5p.m. very sick again. had a cup of tea & was much better. Monday 19th [November?] [3 or 4 lines damaged] .........blowing [ hurricane?] and high sea... Tuesday 20th [November?] [An awful?] sea running ship rolling awfully seas coming over the hurricane deck cabins flooded & all fires put out. making no way. All the engines could do only kept the ship stationary 10.30 p.m. an awful night could not sleep on account of the great rolling. Wednesday 21st [November?] An awful sea still running A boat nearly washed away Cabin doors all packed to keep out the water. Wheel house #PAGE 2 lashed to prevent the seas washing it away. Thursday 22nd [November?] Still blowing a hurricane. Everyone getting sick of the awful rolling; cabins smelling awfully. Do not expect to reach N.Y. [New York?] for 3 weeks. Butcher got a very bad fall. Friday 23rd [November?] Wind changed round to S E [South East?] & the sea greatly down got on deck for the first time since Sunday Ship rolling awfully owing to the waves coming broadside, feeling rather sick. raining very heavily. the first [f---?] day was very wet. Saturday 24th [November?] About 900 miles from Larne. A very wet day, sea greatly down, put up mainsail. Sat evg [Saturday evening?] wind rising rapidly [?] p.m. blowing a gale Sunday 25th An awful storm coming broadside, ship rolling awfully, seas coming over the tops of the masts 3.15 Irish time 5.25 ship time. An awful night got no sleep. Monday 26th [November?] A little calmer. very wet 11 p.m. going to bed. tied myself to bedside to prevent being rolled out Tuesday 27th [November?] A very calm morning #PAGE 3 on the banks of New [Foundland?] Wednesday 28th [November?] [Damaged] [.....sea as calm as glass?] running 11 miles per hour. very foggy on the Banks Thursday 29th [November?] A beautiful day very calm. Any quantity of spirit on board. Champagne going like water. Greater part of the crew up all night Friday 30th [November?] Took a pilot on, saw a lot of sharks. Expect to reach N.Y. [New York?] early tomorrow Ship time 10pm Irish 1.45 am Champagne going like water. Saturday 1st Dec [December?] 88 [1888?] Having a beautiful view going up the bay. Arrived in N.Y. [New York?] at 12 pm Sent baggage to Earles Hotel [Damaged] Sunday Dec [December?] 2nd Very fine day. Chalmers came down to my hotel at 10.30 and we all went by the Elevator to the Hudson River park and got a beautiful view of the Hudson and N.Y. [New York?] city and saw Grant's toome [tomb?]. After dinner we walked down Broadway & took train across the Brooklyn Bridge. afterwards we visited the City Hall, Prison, [Standard?] office Post Office etc Monday 3rd [December?] Rose at 7am met Chalmers #PAGE 4 at 9.0 & worked at samples & prices all day, in the Evening went home with Chalmers for tea. Afterwards went out and visited the Hoffman bar which is the finest in the World. I then went home & wrote some letters. Bed at 11 pm. Tuesday 4th [December?] Rose at 7.30 met Chalmers at 9.0. Called on several houses & made some appointments for Wed. [Wednesday?]. In the evg. [evening?] went to the Academy of Music saw the "Old Homestead", a very good play & charming music. Wednesday 5th [December?] At business all day. in the afternoon called on the Stuarts. had a good evg. [evening?] Thursday 6th [December] Called on a lot of houses. Evg [evening?] went to the Lyceum Theatre & saw "Sweet Lavender" a charming play. Afterwards went round the [....................?] Phillips & I had a splendid night. Friday 7th [December?] Rose at 7am. At business all day; called on [Fred?] Hazelton a fine day Saturday 8th [December?] At business all day. The Arnolds & Mrs Priestly left for Kansas Cy [City?] In the evg. [evening?] I went for tea with Chalmers & afterwards Mrs C. Chalmers & I went to the 7th Regiment Armory & saw all kinds of games & went to a dance afterwards where there were over 400 couples #PAGE 5 (the 7th Regimental Ball) & [....?] of [.....?] games Sunday 9th [December?] Went to St.Leo's Roman Catholic Chapel; in the evening went to the Baptist Church with Mr [?] Monday 10th [December?] At business all day and in the evening went to Eden museum and had a game of checkers with Ageb, the great automaton. Saw photos of all the best scenery in the world (Savoy is my favourite). Saw all the waxworks and representations of all the great crimes of America etc Tuesday 11th [December?] A wet day; made some calls; in the evening went out with Chalmers; visited a museum [Damaged] Wednesday 12th [December?] [Damaged] Thursday 13th [December?] [At business?] all day, got big order [R.M. Clark of?] Mills & Gibb. Evg [evening?] went to dine with the Stuarts. afterwards went to the 5th Avenue Theatre with Mr and Mrs Stuart & saw [Booth? F Barret] act Julius Caesar, a charming play. Friday 14th [December?] Got order from Lusher Whitman saw Byrnes, the cleverest detective in the World had a good night. Saturday 15th [December?] At business all day, got At business all day, got Horstsmans order had tea with Chalmers #PAGE 6 Sunday 16th [December?] Went with Chalmers to see the Central Park. Saw every kind of wild beast [----------------------------?] [--------?] China [ f--ngu?] etc In the evening we went over to Hoboken in the ferry Saw the Cunard steamers & a [------------?] coming in. Any quantity of kissing. Monday 17th [December?] Bought ticket for my Canadian & Western trip for $90. 4.30 pm went on board the "Bristol Steamer" for Boston. A wet day & evg. [evening?]. Steamer delayed 5 1/2 hrs [hours?] owing to the fog 10 pm Just starting. a beautiful sight passing through small Islands & under Brooklin [Brooklyn?] Bridge lights of NY [New York?] made a very fine sight 10.30 passing through Hillgate. Tuesday 18th [December?] Rose at 9.0. In sight of several small islands & the mainland Very stormy. 11 am getting near Newport a beautiful city close to the water's edge & a great sandy beach waves breaking mountains high on the beach. 1.50pm Just arrived in Newport. 2.15 leaving for Boston by the Old Colony line. Newport is a very fashionable watering place. The scenery in the bay is beautiful. 4.30 arrived in Boston & got to the Tremont House. 10pm going to bed after having a walk round & good evening at Grand Opera House. #PAGE 7 Wednesday 19th [December?] Rose at 7am. got to business at 8am. Called on all houses and in the evening visited the Natural History rooms and City Park, where a number of people were [skating?] Thursday 20th [December?] Rose at 7 a.m. Did some business. and left for Montreal by the Grand Trunk Ry. [Railway?] at 1.0 pm After we got out of the suburbs I enjoyed a very fine view of the city which is built on an elevation; and from a distance has quite the appearance of a European City. After having travelled for some two or three hours through a rather flat & very rough country, covered with pine & low bush we got into more mountainous country, where the ground was partly covered with snow and a bear or woolf [wolf?] was occasionally to be seen, scared by the noise of the train. 4 pm. passing along the banks of the Maravonee river which was partly frozen; here the scenery is exceedingly fine. The graceful curves of the river and the great pine trees with their branches bent under the weight of snow form a picture which can never be forgotten. 4.20 pm. At Manchester. 4.50 pm. in [Tunhook?]. here I saw a remains of a great bridge which had fallen the day before. 5pm. at Cannan Passing through beautiful valleys. Lakes. High mountains & rivers, which were all #PAGE 8 frozen. Getting much colder and the snow a great deal deeper. 8.0 pm in the miBdst of the Great White mountains, a glowing moonlight night I stood for long on the platform viewing the scenery which was too beautiful to be described. Looking down the precipice below us, the great pine trees appeared not more in size than the form of a human being. Here the free and easy American manner first struck me. A young & very pretty Canadian lady gave me the pleasure of her company and at once struck up a lively and interesting conversation. And ended to her home. [---?] pm got some supper for my fair companion at St. Albans. [------- ----?] [11?]. 45 (sic)pm arrived in Montreal and got my baggage passed drove in a slay [sleigh?] to the Albion Hotel & got to bed. Rate $1.50 a day. Friday 21st [December?] Rose at 8 am. After breakfast got to business. After seeing the principal parts of the city I came to the conclusion that it is a very old fashoned [fashioned?] place, and business is also done in a rather old fashoned [fashioned?] style. In the evening I visited the great Windsor Hotel the skating rinks & some other places of interest. Saturday 22nd [December?] At business all morning #PAGE 9 and in the evening I drove round the City in a slay [sleigh?], temperature [5.7?] below zero and saw all the principal buildings. 11 pm just in after having spent a very pleasant evening. Sunday 23rd [December?] I went to the Church of the Messiah, Beaver Hall Hill, and afterwards went over to the Hotel Richelieu and got some letters. In the evening I went for a drive with a Mr. Dixon in a slay [sleigh?] and afterwards visited some of the principal buildings, C.P.R. [Canadian Pacific Railway?] Depot etc Monday 24th [December?] [Damaged] For two hours we ran through partly cultivated country, then for four hours we passed through thick patches of white birch and [---------- -----------?] Scenery was beautiful. 1.0 pm saw a Canadian in a slay [sleigh?] drawn by dogs. 2.30pm Arrived in Quebeck [Quebec?] drove in a slay [sleigh?] to the Hinchey House dined & got to business at once called on all the houses, etc. 5pm commenced to rain very heavily. Had a look at the St Laurence [Lawrence?] from the [Citadel?] and saw round a bit. Afterwards had a very pleasant evening. Tuesday 25th [December?] Xmas [Christmas?] Day A very wet morning. [----- --------------------------?] Afterwards went to the Cathedral with a young friend. #PAGE 10 We then walked all over the town & through the [------?] ground After dinner we walked out to the plains of Abraham & saw Wolfe's monument, the post where Montgomery fell, the house which his remains were laid out in & where Montcalm fell. Had a very pleasant evening and left by the C.P.R. [Canadian Pacific Railway] for Montreal at 10 pm. In the St. Laurence [Lawrence?] there is the best fishing in the world & first class shooting in the woods around. Quebeck [Quebec?] struck me as being one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen, and it certainly has the most polite citizens I have ever met. I never spent a better Christmas. Wednesday 26th [December?] 6.30 am. Arrived in Montreal from Quebeck [Quebec?] and had a very bad cold, as I was in my wet clothes all night. At business all day. I had been sitting up all night in my wet clothes in the train. Thursday 27th [December?] Very unwell with a cold. Friday 28th [December?] Went to shoot 60 miles from Montreal at James Holwells place; went out with 3 blacks. walked about 3 miles when the dogs came on a bear which I shot. afterwards got two wolves. in the evg. [evening?] we went to the Indian Chiefs hut. Saturday 29th [December?] Left for Toronto at 8.45 pm. Sat up all night in train. #PAGE 11 Sunday 30th [December?] Arrived in Toronto at 8.30 am. Breakfasted at Walkers house, had a walk round & tried to get post restante letters but failed as the P.O. [Post Office?] was closed. Toronto is a beautiful city situated on the shore of the great lake Ontario some of its streets are within stones throw of the water. and the principal thoroughfares command a beautiful view of the Lake & its numerous islands. Many of the streets are made of concrete & are all a right angles to each other. After spending a quiet afternoon & evg [evening?] I retired at 10 pm. Friday 4th [January?] Left Toronto at 4.0 pm for Hamilton, got a fine view of Lake Ontario as we passed along its shore on the way to Hamilton. 6.0 pm arrived in Hamilton which is a very pretty little city of about 45,000 inhabitants which is built at the foot of high hills or mountains, it used to be the leading city of that part of the Province of Ontario but of late years Toronto has quite taken the lead. Saturday 5th [January?] At business till 10 pm [am?] and left for Niagra [Niagara?] Falls at 2 pm. The scenery between H. [Hamilton?] & Niagra [Niagara?] is particularly fine. The Grand Trunk Railway passes through a number of extensive fruit fields and as you approach the Falls the country gets wilder and #PAGE 12 the scenery better. [--?10] Passing over the great Canti Lever [cantilever?] bridge which is over 800 feet long & one of the finest and highest bridges in the world, being over 250 feet above the river, the train passed over it sloly [slowly?] & it commands a good view of the whirlpool rapids, where Capt [Captain?] Webb was last seen. & a birds eye view of the Canadian falls. 4.20 pm arrived at the Western Hotel, which is situated within a stones throw of the railway station on the American side, which is by no means a first class Hotel, but being well treated terms moderate I put up at it. I then engaged a buggie to drive to Prospect Park House (a first class hotel) for 2 1/2 dollars per day, which is just located beside the Falls; my letters were to have been there but I found they had been sent on to Cleveland as I was rather behind my time. Sunday 6th Jan. [January?] Rose at 8 pm after having a bad nights sleep as I was just beside the Depot & the shunting locomotives which kept me awake all Saturday night. Sunday is the great time for collecting all the rolling stock. 10 am. Drove out in a buggie to the Whirlpool Rapids, descended in an elevator to the foot of the cliff, 250 feet, & got a fine view of the rapids, where Capt [Captain?] Webb was last seen etc. The banks of the river are 250 feet here #PAGE 13 and very pretty, being most partly covered with bush. The elevator descends in a sort of wooden structure & is worked by a steam engine, a man & boy being in constant attendance. Each visitor pays 50 cents for the use of the elevator. Guides are admitted free (everywhere) The river here is 256 feet deep & only about 700 feet wide & the water rushes with great force. I then drove to another whirlpool which about 1 mile further down the river. The river here is very pretty although there is not much to be seen at the whirlpool it is simply caused by a sharp turn in the course of the river. it is very powerfull [powerful?] & often takes down great logs & it is a fine sight to see it take down great masses of ice in the winter season. To get a view of it the visitor has to pay 50 cents for admission to a kind of park or garden which is all enclosed Between the Whirlpool & the Rapids there is a large school or college. [------?] the whirlpool, I drove back to the Falls & got a fine view of the American Falls from Prospect Park I then drove to Goat Island & visited the Three Sisters Islands the Canadian Falls the Cave of the winds etc etc. At the Cave of the winds I met a Coleraine man, a Mr. Stuart. After spending a couple of hours here I drove back to my hotel & dined. The drive cost me 3 dollars (for 3 1/2 hours). After dinner I took a streetcar & went up to Prospect Park House #PAGE 14 & transacted some business got my railway ticket etc. I then got a guide for 6 cents & went across to the Cananian side, by the suspension rope bridge which was blown down two days later on & got a very fine view of both Falls. In my opinion it is a much better plan to engage a guide & walk round all the places of interest, as you can take more time than when driving & it is much cheaper. A Mr. Dubois is a very reliable guide and is generally to be found at the entrance to Prospect Park. This description of Niagra [Niagara?] is continued in the last three pages of this book. H.J.C. At 8.15 pm I left for Buffalo and travelled with the Coleraine man whom I met at the Falls. He was very glad to meet an Irishman and gave me a warm invitation to stop a week with him in Pittsburg. 9. pm arrived in Buffalo at the Arlington Hotel. Monday 7th Jan. [January?] Called on all the D.G. [Dry Goods?] Houses. had a walk round the city & left for Cleveland at 2 pm. Buffalo is quite a nice city of [------?] inhabitants pretty much the same as all others of its population 8 pm arrived in Cleveland had quite a difficulty getting accommodation for myself & a lady friend who I met on the train. At last put up in the American house & I found it to be very comfortable and good value for $2 a day. Tuesday 8th [January?] Called on a number of Houses & left for Detroit at 3 pm. #PAGE 15 (Cleveland is a beautiful city I think the most beautiful I have seen. Its L. [ Lower?] Euclid Avenue is said to be the finest street in the world, rows of beautiful trees grow at either side and the dwellings of the rich merchants of the city are regurally [regularly?] built at a distance of about 40 yards from the avenue. An electric car runs from end to end a distance of some [---?] miles [----------------------?] I enjoyed the run from Cleveland to Detroit on the lake Eyrie railroad very much. The track [--------------?] and view of Lake Eyrie most part of the way. I stopped at Toledo for about 2 hours and was glad to get a good supper. Toledo is quite a fine city pretty much the same as all others of its population 200,000. At 11.45 pm I arrived in Detroit at the Greswald which I found to be very comfortable though it has no elevator. Wednesday 9th [January?] A very wet day. I wont forget a jolly good dinner which I had in the Greswald for many a day to come. I did my business and had a look at the city and left for Chicage by the [----- & Gr---?] railway at 8pm. Detroit is a very fine city and although I saw it at a great disadvantage I was very favorably impressed with it. I should say it is one of the best business cities of its population in the States. Immediately after leaving Detroit a great hurrican [hurricane?] commenced to blow, so much so that the train #PAGE 16 could make but little way & we feared being snowed up. However thanks to a powerful locomotive we were able to keep moving steadily though slowly all the night. A very kind New Yorker travelled in the train with me and gave me a very kind invitation to his house in N.Y. [New York?] I awoke in the morning & found that the storm had quite gone down. 8 am we were going through a great "prairie" and every few minutes we passed over other railways. In Gt. [Great?] Britain one seldom sees one railway cross another without an arch but in America they just cross each other as two roads would but of course have always to stop to see that the road is clear. Looking ahead we say the smoke of the great city, the suburbs of which hava a very unfinished appearance. The roads are very bad in fact I saw none that were paved; the footpaths are nearly all wooden. For miles outside the city there are numerous lots of ground for sale; those close to the city are very valuable and great fortunes have been made by property speculation. Thuraday 10th [January?] Arrived in Chicago at 9.45 am at the Atlantic Hotel, here I found a lot of letters waiting for me, some of great importance with ref. [reference?] to the firm of I.W.T.& Co. [Company?] who had got several hundred pounds worth of goods from my father & refused payment. After breakfasting & arranging my room, I made enquiries about the location of the principal D.G. [Dry Goods?] stores, got out to business & visited Messers I.W.T.& Co. [Company?] with whom I had a considerable amount of trouble. #PAGE 17 At length I got a promise of payment in full on the following Monday. I then called on several D.G. [Dry Goods?] Houses and [---------------------?] I was fortunate enough to meet Mr John McIntyre, an Irishman to the backbone for he was rather glad to meet a fellow countryman. At first I suspected his being a "confidence man" and watched him closely. In the evening he took me to a nice Hotel. The Windsor on Dearboon St. [Street?]. The proprietor is an Irishman a very wealthy Gentleman who owns a lot of house property etc. in the city. His wife is a Dungannon lady & knows a number of friends of mine & was educated at Gracehill Academy which I know very well. Consequently we were very glad to meet Mr & Mrs Greyston who were very kind to me during my stay in Chicago. After getting my trunk from the Atlantic Hotel I went out to spend a very pleasant evg [evening?] with my new but very kind friend McIntyre At first he took me through a number of dark back streets & I thought was going to rob me but later on we visited a number of places of interest Carrie Watsons (etc etc etc etc etc ) Friday 11th Jan. [January?] At business all morning. Called on the great firm of Marshall Field & Co. [Company?] who have the finest business house in the world. I also visited the Great Farewell bdgs. [buildings?] owned by Messers I.V. Farewell & Co. spent several hours seeing over this gigantic house with my friend McIntyre. In the evening I dined with McIntyre and afterwards had #PAGE 18 a beauty of a night. Was introduced to Miss Minnie Cooper one of the great artistes of the day. Saturday 12th [January?] An engagement with Messrs G.A.G. & Co. [Company?] at 1.30 pm. In the evening went out to a suburban place by rail & got an idea of the residences of the wealthy mearchants [merchants?] which are very fine & beautiful. Later on I went to dine with McIntyre at his residence. After dinner went to see some other Irishmen & had some jolly songs. turned in about 1 am. Sunday 13th [January?] Mr Greyston drove me out to his residence & introduced me to his family & a Mr & Mrs Young Dungannon people who were very glad to meet me as I knew several of their Irish friends. They were on a three months visit to Chicago. After having a long talk and good dinner, Mr Greyston drove me over to the Grand Boulevards which are very fine indeed; after a drive of some 18 / 20 miles, and seeing a number of beautiful residences etc., we returned home and spent a very pleasant evening. At 10 pm we drove back to the Hotel (a drive of 8 miles) in a covered landau. Monday 13 [14th?] [January?] Made another effort to get the money from Messrs I.W.T & Co. [Company?] but unsuccessful had a lot of trouble after the dishonest sneak. Met Mr. Burgess & Mr. Lindley our late American Agents who had sold the goods which I.W.T & Co [Company?] would not pay for. they had been unable to get payment for other #PAGE 19 lots. Called on James H. Walker & Co [Company?] and got a good order, also several other orders. In the evening I went to hear a political speaker, I went with Mr. McIntyre; 14,000 people present. Later on I went round the city a bit with Jasker, a Spanish Jew. Tuesday 15th [January?] Trying to get payment from I.W.T. & Co. [Company?] but without success after threatening legal proceedings. In the afternoon visited a number of sights, Stockyards, Exchange, Board of Trade etc. In the evening went round with McIntyre, he was unfortunate enough to be robbed of 57 dollars in a Winter Garden. Thursday 17th [January?] Left for Milwaukee at 8am by the C. [Chicago?] M. [Minneapolis?] & St. Paul Railway. A very cold morning, temperature about 28 degrees below zero. The above mentioned railway runs pretty near Lake Michigan but not within sight. Milwaukee is situated about 90 miles from Chicago, we made the run in 3 hrs [hours?] including about 7 or 8 stoppages. The country within sight of the track is most part very wild & the land appeared to have been but poorly cultivated. 11. am Arrived in Milwaukee at "awfully cold". "The Plankerton". called on all the Houses till 6pm. this was about the hardest days work ever I went through. at 6pm I was about 1 1/2 miles from my Hotel & it was with difficulty that I got back to it. 8 pm made some more calls. Saw round a bit got to bed early. Friday 18th [January?] 6 am had breakfast and left #PAGE 20 for Chicago at 7.30 am. Arrived at Chicago at 10.50 am. At first I had intended going to Racine but thought it better to hurry back to Chicago & see Messers I.W.T. & Co. [Company?] but I found a letter from home. In the evg [evening?] I made a few business calls & went out for a good evening. Saturday 19th [January?] Called on Messers I.W.T. & Co. [Company?] in the morn. [morming?] & insisted on his paying me in full. I then went over to the First National Bank got a bill of Foreign Exchange & mailed it home After lunch I went with Mr Young to see the City Water Works. [Hear -------------?] getting a [----------------?] Visited [--------?] Hall, the People's Library etc etc. In a paper in the Library I was much amused to see an account of a squabble which two of my father's workers had. Had a very good Irish evening with McIntyre's brother. went to a lot of the roughest parts of the city. Sunday 20th [January?] Mr Greyston was kind enough to have his slay [sleigh?] fitted up and drive into Chicago for me and then drive me to his father's house, a distance of about 8 miles. Later on we drove to his own residence, where I was very kindly entertained by Mrs Greyston. after having a good lunch and getting well wrapped up Mr G. [Greyston?] again drove me out to the Grand Boulevards where we saw thousands of slays [sleighs?] we then #PAGE 21 drove about 37 miles through the country & along the shores af Lake Michigan & after returning home & dining Mr.G. [Greyston?] & the Misses G. [Greyston?] & I drove back to the City & left me at my Hotel Later in the evening I went with an [------------------------?] to hear a company of [-------- -------------[ 3 lines ]...... Monday 21st [January?] After bidding farewell to all my friends I left for St Louis by the [-------?] Ry [Railway?]. [Diary ends here]Close