Journal of Passenger on Board the H.M.S. Oruba
H.M.S. Oruba Left Tilbury Docks, London Friday 20 October, 1905. landed in Fremantle Harbour, Thursday 23rd Nov 1905. M.R.Morrow [Page 1] Thursday 19 Oct 1905 Arrived in London this morning from Dublin met my cousin who brought me to a friend's home where I had breakfast & a few hours sleep, after dinner I went around with one of my friends. We visited St. Paul's cathedral where preparations were being made for the burial ceremony of a great actor. Sir Henry Irvine. Saw Nelson's Pillar which was decorated for the coming Trafalgar day, took a bus to Marble Arch, on our way back we met Tom coming from his office all three of us went to Whitehall Place, (noted historically as the scene of execution of Charles 1.) thence to Houses of Parliament, back again to friends home had tea and a rest, after which we went to an evangelistic service in Stamford [Page 2] Wesleyan Church, conducted by a converted actor. His two daughters whose voices had been trained for the stage, were now singing the praises of Lion they gave a pretty duet entitled "It is my Lord" Old friends made inquiries for Edwin and his welfare. After or at least before meeting was quite finished, we went to friend's home for cup of cocoa and to say "Good bye" then off to Colonial Hotel for the night, quite close to St Pancras. Friday Oct. 20th 05 Awoke this morning in Colonial Hotel, greatly refreshed after a good night's rest & sleep, had breakfast at 8.30. Tom called at 9, we both went to St Pancras station where a special train left for [Page 3] Tilbury Docks at 9.30 a.m. with a number of passengers for the Oruba. Here I said good-bye to my east English friend, cousin Tom. Arrived at Docks about 10 a.m. delayed a little while here. With the other passengers, then shown on board and directed to our appointed cabins. My luggage which was sent on last week has arrived here safely. At present vessel is plying between England and France, the Dover lights can be seen from deck on one side, while the Calais lights flash on the other. Weather mild since leaving Tilbury Docks, ship scarcely felt moving. Some nice passengers on board, hope to be in Plymouth to-morrow at 10 a.m. Saturday 21st Oct. 05 Sighting Plymouth this morg. [morning?] good view [Page 4] of cliffs, splendid fields in the distance Passing a ship bound for New Zealand which is lying in the Harbor. a steamer has come alongside to take anyone ashore who wishes, ship anchored remained in Port from 10 a.m. till 5 p.m. Saw the Eddystone revolving lights this evening Going into the Bay of Biscay at present ship beginning to rock a little. Sunday 22nd Oct 05 First Sunday on board, very miserable Sea rough in Bay of Biscay, ship and all her living freight pitched about by the waves without mercy. Monday 23rd Oct 05 Still in rough water this is truly : - "In the Bay of Biscay O" [Page 5] Tuesday 24th Oct '05 Nearly all he passengers sea-sick, myself amongst them No land in sight, only angry waves on every side, the sailors cheer us up with the comforting words "you are having a beautiful time in comparison with some voyages" entering the Mediterranean tonight, head greatly, improved, able to walk about on deck. Wednesday 25th Oct. '05 Anchored at Gibraltar this morning very refreshing to look at the beautiful green orchards and trees, after the rough tossing during last three days Sea-sickness seems to be all gone. Quite a number of Spaniards have come on board with fresh fruit; they seem to be a polite and dignified people. The impregnable [Page 6] Rock of Gibraltar was in sight for some hours and the British Cannon could be heard there quite distinctly. Thursday 26th Oct. '05. Awokewith bad headache which got worse with every heave of the ship. Friday 27th Oct '05 Helped by stewardess on deck this morning, sea quite calm and the cool breezes soon blew away the dizzy ugly feeling Sighted south of France shortly after breakfast and about 3 p.m. landed at Marseilles where we remained till 6 p.m. A steamer came alongside with passengers & took ashore those wishing to see the city. It is a place of beautiful buildings. The dome of the Cathedral sparkle in the setting sun like so many golden bells. A number of [Page 7] poor French people came around in little boats trying to sell fruit, drapery and little trinkets of various kinds; they were not allowed on board, but they have long bamboo poles, with a little net basket on top they sent up some of their various goods to decks for passengers to look at, what is not needed after examining is returned in the same way with money for things which have been bought. The specimens of French we saw here were rather squatty, the women looked handsome and gay, they braided their hair up very nicely with plenty of ornaments Some beautiful Music was played in the little French boats. On leaving port the city looked magnificent, and the coast was one "fairy scene" [Page 8] of electric light and flashes. Saturday 28th Oct. 05 Able to enjoy surroundings this morning. Ship just gliding along through Mediterranean, passed through Corsica And Sardinia, outline of islands very bare and bleak. Sunday 29 Oct 05. Some awful noise and bustle early this morning caused by the ship coming into port at Naples. On deck and what a sight there for Sunday! Our ship was busy getting in a supply of coal; while on either side of her lay French ships, a private yacht. trading vessels and native boats, each ship had its own national flag hoisted the crew can read all those flags and signs. From the French ship bound from America I could see (by the help of [Page 9 ] my glasses) very distinctly the passengers on board, most miserable looking objects Italians & French of the lower orders & Arabs their tawny looking persons would not be so disagreeable if only they had clean clothes and tidily dressed; they are disgusting. Amongst the ships there came quite a number of Italians in boats selling their different wares in the same manner as the French; some of them could talk English fairly well but others could only make signs, "shilly" seemed to be the only English they could command for a shilling; they talk in a singing musical sort of way. Quite a number of our people went to visit Pompeii. In the evening two christian ladies came [Page 10 ] aboard from the Sailors Bethel at Naples and invited any who liked to join them at Service to come over; they brought their boats to our ship with men to row us to the Bethel which is on the other side of the habour. Some ladies, gentlemen and my self made up A nice little party and off we started in the boats We had a most enjoyable meeting in heathen Naples. When it was over we were again rowed back in safety to our "floating home", We have a grand view of Mt Vesuvius here. day time it looks like an ordinary mountain with smoke rising out of the topmost peak, night it almost terrifying to look at. Although 12 miles from it, we could see the awful flames, [Page 11 ] bursting up at intervals of 3 to 5 minutes, and the continual stream of burning red lava, running down one side of the mountain the Italian women were dancing, singing and playing mandolins in their boats all Italian songs. They have beautiful voices and pretty features, there seems to be a lot of poverty amongst them. The ship did not leave port till midnight. This ship takes in the mail here, which has come overland through Europe. Monday 30th October '05 Sea rough today sky clouded, heavy rain. Although the waves are as high here as the Bay of Biscay, yet the ship is not rocking much, this is owing to the fair [Page 12] wind blowing and no undercurrents There is nothing beautiful to look at just now but high waves , the only land passed today was that surrounding Stromboli we hope to see Mt [Mount?] Etna this evg [evening?]. There are three volcanoes in our vicinity Vesuvius, Stromboli and Etna. Hope to be at Port Said next Thursday. Tuesday 31st October 05 Had not an opportunity of seeing Mt [Mount?] Etna last night, too dark weather got stormy and ship began pitching about, number of passengers got ill, myself with the rest. Nothing of importance today except another ship passing. Wednesday 1st November 05 Beautiful morning up on deck today [Page 13 ] to see sunrise, something majestic he peeps up so silently and gradually over the waters and sends out his golden beams, dancing in all directions over the placid waters. gets warmer every day, nearing Port Said, twenty more days to spend on the "Ocean wave." Thursday 2nd November 05 Good nights rest, 5.30 and 6 a m our usual hour for rising, so as [to?] get the benefit of cool sea breezes. Sea beautiful this morning not a ripple on the waters, except that caused by the machinery of ship Anchored at Port Said, very interesting place, said to be connecting link between East and West, went ashore [Page 14] with some other friends and enjoyed the trip very much. Jerusalem is about 80 miles from here. Some splendid shops, people most obliging. The natives show the visitors round the different places, any shops we visited were in charge of white people. Natives dress in those long robes same style as worn hundreds of years ago Streets wide and warehouses most extensive, work done in a very easy going manner. Weather getting warmer every day entering Suez Canal, scenery most beautiful for some distance from Port Said. Ship moving at snail's pace. Arabia lies on one side of Canal. Egypt the other, palm trees growing along the banks. At night the moon shone out which [Page 15 ] gave everything a most charming appearance; whilst the search lights of our ship sent their beams ever so far ahead; making the place almost as brilliant as daylight. Unwillingly we turned into our cabins, leaving Port Said and its interesting people behind. Friday 3rd November 1905 Last night was awakened from a peaceful sleep by rumbling noises got a fright, thought the ship was grounding in Canal, presently I fell asleep again till morning, when I found out cause of noise in the night. Another ship was passing, ours had to stand still and it was the machinery of it stopping that awoke me. Got a good view of the Arabian desert this morning on one side of the ship and Sahara on the other; had the pleasure of seeing camels drawing loads for the natives, who seemed to be in the process of cutting a little narrow railway through the sands on the Arabian side, the Sahara appears more desolate than the Arabian desert, with only a few huts scattered here and there. Indeed both are dreary looking there are some British settlements along the banks of the Canal, at a great distance apart, those who live on them have some appointment under the Canal Company. I noticed a blue bird here about the size of a swallow, and a dog resembling our English retriever. We are just [Page 16] entering the Red Sea, it is getting very hot, we passed the little village of Suez today, ship stopped about two hours to get in vegetables. Passengers not allowed to go ashore some natives came on board. I am enjoying the voyage at present and find the time passing quickly Ship's crew so kind and considerate that one could not feel lonely glad to be in the open sea again, very monotonous in the Canal with ship scarcely moving and "miles and miles of yellow sand as far as the eye could see". "We shall pass through the place soon where the Israelites crossed from Egypt to Canaan. The position of the Garden of Eden is not far from here [Page 17] but cannot be seen from the ship. Beautiful moonlight on the water. Home, at Inver with all their pleasant surroundings come more vivid when looking on the peaceful scene, than during the fuss and babble of today. Saturday 4th Nov '05 Saw the sun beginning to peep this morning over the waters, still in Red Sea , weather very hot. It is easy now to understand, why natives wear such badly fitted garments and sandals, heat too intense to dress fashionably. It is a number of degrees cooler on sea than land and indeed we feel it hot enough,. This has seemed a short week. [Page 18] Sunday 5th November 1905 Still in the Red Sea, heat unbearable There was Church Service held this morning I should like to have gone but was afraid to leave open air on deck for a closed room . At 8 p.m. we had another service on deck which I enjoyed very much, we always sing those two hymns "Eternal father by whose aid" and " The day thou gavest Lord is ended" I was thinking when singing and looking over those great waves, how helpless would be our little ship, in midst of deep water if left to ourselves. " O hear us when we cry to thee for those in peril on the sea" Sighted no land to-day. Some vessels passed in a homeward direction. [Page 19] Monday 6th November 1905 Passed some very bare peaks to-day called the "Twelve Apostles" At night we saw a lighthouse in the distance, built on the rock near Perim. A few ships passed today Temperature of the sea here 94 degrees Tuesday 7th November '05 Through the Red Sea, and in Arabian temperature several degrees cooler, with a nice breeze blowing, passed Aden this morning. Our ship travels at an average rate of 325 miles daily heavy showers came on this evening deck covered with water in some places. Wednesday 8th November '05 Heat not so oppressive this morg [morning?], good breeze blowing; sighted some barren land in the distance, at present in [Page 20] Arabian Sea, hope to reach Colombo on Monday, then a ten days run to Fremantle. One of the officials said "we had a cool time coming through the Red Sea in comparison with some other voyages once they had seven deaths from the heat so we have no cause to grumble. Thursday 9th November '05 Heat very trying to-day; under doctors care. Friday 10th November '05 Good-nights rest. Several cases in hospital to-day. Sea rather rough Raining just now, shower pleasant to cool the atmosphere. Saturday 11th November '05 Another week has passed at sea [Page 21] there are few Irish passengers on board. Good concert given to-night by crew had the pleasure of hearing "Killarney" sung.. Sunday 12th November '05 Very hot this morg [morning?] almost impossible to walk about. There is Holy Communion every Sunday morning at 7.30 we passed some beautiful green islands to-day, there [they?] were a refreshing sight in this oppressive heat, there is a lighthouse on one. It is delightful just now to look across the moonlit waters from the ships edge such vast expanse so grand, and still. Great flashes of lighting are seen away in the distance, nearly every minute apparently in the west, those flashes [Page 22] are due to intense heat of the atmosphere. Enjoyed deck service to-night very much. Monday 13th November '05 Hope to anchor in Colombo this afternoon, quite a number of our passengers will leave us there. Coal vegetables stores for the ship and tea for the Colonies have to be taken in, it causes a lot of confusion when it is taking in coal, those natives do shout. Anchored at Colombo, could not expect myself to go across, some of the natives use talk very good English with the exception of the Spanish, they are the nicest I have met at any port. I also met a very intelligent native at Port Said, he was selling Bibles and religious literature [Page 23] it is wonderful among those so ignorant people what the grace of God can do; our missionaries need sympathy in their noble work, they have many disadvantages we can't comprehend Tuesday 14th November '05 I expect you are only getting up at home now, while we had breakfast over two hours ago we are about five hours ahead of you at present 11 a.m.here and only 6 a.m. at home. It is very hot but we shall have it hotter in a few days crossing the equator. Looking over at the Indian Mts [Mountains?] and Point de Salle, there are some Man of War ships lying around the coast. Our ship set sail again this morning I saw a native pilot coming [Page 24] on board to guide us into the harbour. I do enjoy watching the pilot join us and somehow Tennyson's beautiful lines on "Crossing the Bar" come to my memory coming in at every port where the native pilot takes charge. It is raining at present , we are sailing through the Indian Ocean. It was something magnificent to see the moon rise above the water's to-night, and gradually slip up higher and higher in the sky , not a ripple on the water, except that caused by the ship ploughing her way through the boundless deep. Wednesday 15th Novr '05 Heat oppressive, ship rocking a little [Page 25] at present. Hope to have the equator region crossed to-night. Sea looks rough and there are heavy clouds closing in, probably a thunderstorm is raging somewhere near and on its way to us. Thursday 16th Novr '05 Have crossed the equator, heavy rain to-day, very dark at sea to night Friday 17th Novr '05 Heavy rain still Ship pitching a lot at present can scarcely write. Bought some post cards at all the ports except Suez, was told by the stewardess this morg [morning?] that we had a wild time last night. stormy with heavy rains, glad I did not hear it, was fast asleep. Have now [Page 26] the trade winds, rain has cleared off a little bit. Saturday 18th Novr '05 My last Saturday on board, sea has been rough since we left Colombo, no land in sight since last Tuesday, no evening in these latitutes, night comes on suddenly but these are some beautiful sunsets. The North Star has faded from our sight and new stars appear four in the shape of a cross and called the "Southern Cross" Sunday 19th Novr '05 Beautiful morning weather nice and cool at present but not cold. Sky clear and at night there seems to be brilliancy about the moon [Page 27] and the stars in these latitudes not seen in our climate this is probably caused by the clearness of the atmosphere . Monday 20th Nov '05 Good nights rest, ship making great headway. Tuesday 21st Nov '05 These last weeks have passed very quickly only two more nights to spend on the "Oruba" Skies clear, and the dazzling of the sun on the waters is trying to the eyes. We shall soon view the Australian coast. No scenery since leaving Colombo, rolling waters of Indian Ocean as far as the eye can see. Wednesday 22nd Nov '05 Beautiful morning, air light and [Page 28] cool, sea looks like glass. Tomorrow I hope to end my long voyage. On the whole it has been pleasant. Hearing nothing but regrets "that I must go so soon" from the friends in my floating home. I trust we shall anchor safely in Fremantle. Saw a little steamer in Australian waters to-day. Air light and dry. Thursday 23rd Nov '05 Slept soundly last night, rather foggy this morning, not so clear nor bracing as yesterday. Landed at Fremantle what a lot of "good byes" leaving the ship. Felt rather lonely at parting from the old 'Oruba' with all her kind and jolly crew. Transcribed by: Tony FlanaganClose